A good way to start is with Plamuk Tod, light, crispy calamari rings ($6.50). The sauce is hotly flavored, a good way to notify your taste buds that something special is on the way. Another appetizer that I liked was Goong Kra Bog ($7), whole small thin prawns wrapped infried rice paper.You dip them into a Thai sauce. Very tasty. Jim Wood San Francisco Examiner Food and Wine Critic Friday, June 21, 1996 · Page D 9

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